Höfði was built in 1909 and was initially the house of the French consul in Iceland. Among other renowned guests of Höfði are the Queen of England and Winston Churchill. In addition, the house is believed to be occupied by a ghost, the White Lady, witnessed by a former British Ambassador who once occupied the house. She caused so much distress in 1952 that he persuaded the British Foreign Office to sell the house.

Head to the base of the glass tower block, Höfðatorg. Leaving the tower to your left, walk along Borgartún past the glass-fronted offices. Turn left onto Þórunnartún, past the courtyard of the Fosshótel Reykjavík, and at the end of the road turn right onto Bríetartún. As you walk along Bríetartún, the contrast between the smooth glass of the 2010s developments you’ve just passed and the pebbledashed 1960s apartments on the left of the road shows in an instant how urban form has changed in the capital in the last half-century. Stay alongside the gloomy grey blocks, turning left onto Rauðarárstígur, until you reach an open square surrounded by bus stops.

Next: Austurbær to Hallgrímskirkja